Kodre climbs the hillside behind central Ulcinj — a residential quarter of stepped streets, gardens and low houses, five hundred metres above the shops and a couple of kilometres from the water. What you give up in beach proximity you get back in air, quiet and outlook: the town, the harbour and the fortress headland lie below, and the evening breeze comes uphill off the sea.
Walking down into the centre takes ten minutes or so; walking back up is the day's exercise. Once there, the Old Town, the harbour and Mala plaža sit in one compact area, and the bus station on the town's edge makes the rest of the south reachable without driving. Velika plaža and the shallow water at its northern end are a few minutes by car, and the flat land behind it holds the lagoons of the old salt works, where flamingos and waders gather in spring and autumn. Further out are Šasko lake under the Rumija ridge, the pebble beaches at Kruče and Utjeha on the road towards Bar, and the Bojana river with its restaurants built over the current. Being slightly inland has a practical advantage in high summer too — nights up here cool down while the seafront stays warm.
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