
From this corner of Liman the fortified Old Town sits framed across the water, a wall of stone on its headland that turns gold in the late afternoon — one of the views people come to Ulcinj for, and here it is simply what is outside the window. The bathing places below are the Liman rocks and platforms, deep and clear, with Mala plaža and its curve of dark sand a few minutes further along the shore.
Ulcinj works well as a base because so much of the far south sits within an easy radius. Velika plaža and the salt-pan lagoons behind it, full of flamingos and migrating waders, are a short drive; Ada Bojana and the river restaurants a little beyond that; Šasko lake, thick with birdlife, lies inland under the Rumija ridge. North along the coast are the small pebble coves at Kruče and Utjeha and the sheltered bay at Valdanos with its ancient olive grove. Bar and its railway station are roughly half an hour away and Podgorica airport a little over an hour, which makes arriving and leaving simple. In town, the evening belongs to the promenade and to the fish restaurants around the harbour, where the catch is whatever the boats landed that morning.
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