
Ulcinj's food is a strong argument for staying near Velika plaža rather than driving in from elsewhere. The town has been a fishing port for centuries and the catch still comes ashore daily: sea bass and bream grilled whole with nothing but oil and lemon, buzara of mussels or shrimp, small fried fish eaten with your fingers, and eel and grey mullet out of the Bojana delta a few kilometres south. The plain behind the beach supplies the rest — olive oil pressed within a few kilometres, figs, pomegranates, lamb and sheep cheese from the hills inland.
The beach itself is a couple of hundred metres away through the pines: twelve kilometres of dark, fine sand with water shallow enough to walk far out into, and bars and sunbeds along the organised sections. Behind it, the lagoons of the old salt works form a protected wetland where flamingos, herons and pelicans stop on migration, close enough to reach on foot or by bike from the beach road. Ada Bojana and its wooden restaurants standing over the river are a short drive south, and the fortified Old Town, harbour and Mala plaža a similar distance north. Late May and September bring warm water without the August crowd.
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