
Capital Plaza stands on Cetinjska, in the part of Podgorica rebuilt fastest over the past decade — a block of glass and offices that has pulled cafés, shops and services around it. The Gallery of Modern Art is a couple of hundred metres away, and the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ, with its white towers and gold-ground frescoes, is barely further; it took three decades to build and is the most conspicuous new landmark in the country. The main bus and railway stations are about ten minutes on foot, and Podgorica airport a short drive south across the Zeta plain.
The immediate area is dense with places to eat, from grill houses turning out ćevapi and lamb to the newer wine bars pouring Vranac and Krstač from the vineyards on the plain below the city. Podgorica's rivers are the thing to seek out on foot: the Morača runs in a shallow gorge through the middle of town, spanned by the cable-stayed Millennium Bridge, with shingle banks and swimming spots underneath. Summers here are genuinely fierce — this is one of the hottest cities in Europe — so local life happens early and late, and the terrace culture on the surrounding streets runs well into the night.
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