Central Ulcinj packs a great deal into a few hundred metres. The main street runs down towards the sea, and at the bottom of it Mala plaža sits in a tight bowl of dark sand with bars and terraces stacked around the edge — roughly five hundred metres from the middle of town, and the reason the centre empties towards the water every afternoon. Above the beach the fortified Old Town rises on its rock, its walls holding museums, small hotels, a former church turned mosque and viewpoints taking in the whole southern coast.
The town's character is genuinely its own: largely Albanian-speaking, Venetian and Ottoman by turns in its history, and busier after dark than any comparable place on this coast. Cafés run from early morning coffee straight through to late-night music without an obvious break, and the fish restaurants around the harbour work off whatever came in that day. Practical things are close — market, bus station, banks and bakeries all within the same grid — which makes this a good base if you would rather not drive. When you do, Velika plaža and its salt-pan lagoons full of flamingos are a few minutes south, Ada Bojana and the river restaurants a little further, and the coves at Kruče and Utjeha lie north on the road to Bar.
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