
Pine woods cover the hill at Pinješ, and the air is the first thing most guests notice — resinous, a little cooler than the seafront, and free of the traffic noise that collects along the coast road below. This is a quiet residential quarter of villas and gardens on the slope above the water, with sea views over the treetops and a ten-minute walk down to the nearest beach. Ulcinj's mild, dry climate and its pine cover have long given the town a reputation as an easy place to breathe, and this hillside is where that reputation comes from.
The walk down leads to the harbour, Mala plaža and the lanes climbing into the fortified Old Town, two thousand years of walls above the sea with viewpoints looking south along the sand. North along the coast the road runs to Valdanos, a sheltered bay wrapped in one of the largest old olive groves on the Adriatic, and on to the small pebble beaches at Kruče and Utjeha. South, Velika plaža starts a few kilometres out of town — twelve kilometres of dark sand with the salt-pan lagoons and their flamingos behind it, and the Bojana river and Ada Bojana at the far end. Spring and October here are warm, green and almost empty.
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