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Petrovac's centre is greener than most of this coast, and this is the part where the greenery is thickest: pines, palms and cypresses running down the slope to a beach fifty metres below. The town grew from a fishing settlement in a bay the Romans had already found useful — a floor mosaic from a villa of that period survives a short walk inland — and the small fort on the point, the Kastio, was built by Venice to watch for pirates. The two sit within a few minutes of each other.
Between them is the reason people keep returning: a sheltered crescent of reddish sand, a promenade with enough cafés to make the evening walk worthwhile, and two islets on the horizon that catch the last light. Petrovac is compact enough to cross in a quarter of an hour, but it has a real year-round population, which shows in the markets, the bakeries and the fact that places stay open in May and October. Boats leave the quay for coves along the coast, the Paštrovići monasteries sit on the ridge above, and Sveti Stefan, Budva and Bar are all inside a half-hour drive.
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