
Greenery is what distinguishes this pocket of Bečići from the hotel line directly on the sand. Pines, oleander and cypress fill the ground between the buildings and the shore, so the eighty metres down to the water pass in shade, and the same trees hold the noise of the coastal road at a distance. The beach at this point is wide, mixing sand with the fine gravel Montenegrins call šljunak, and the water clears within a day of any summer storm. Behind the trees the slope rises into gardens and olive terraces that were here long before the hotels.
There is more to do than swim. Bečići has courts for tennis and volleyball, a water park that runs through July and August, and kiosks along the front selling half-day boat trips down the riviera or across to Sveti Nikola, the wooded island off Budva that locals call Hawaii. The seafront path reaches Budva's harbour and old town in around thirty minutes on foot; the other way it ends at Rafailovići and its row of fish restaurants. For a day off the beach, Skadar Lake's reed channels and bird colonies are about an hour inland, and Kotor's fortified old town, an hour up the coast, pairs well with the climb up the city walls to the fortress of San Giovanni.
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