
Two and a half kilometres out of Kolašin the town gives way to village: fenced gardens, hay meadows, scattered houses with woodpiles stacked under the eaves, and above them the peaks of Bjelasica and Sinjajevina. A dense beech forest begins about fifty metres from here, which in practice means the dawn chorus arrives through the window — this belt of old woodland carries a serious concentration of birdlife, and in autumn it turns the whole slope copper. Paths lead straight into the trees from the lane.
The distance from the centre is small enough to drive in five minutes and large enough that you notice the quiet, particularly in the shoulder seasons when Kolašin empties of skiers. Down in town there is the market, the square, ski hire and the rail station; up the valley are the two ski areas on Bjelasica; and north-east, about half an hour away, Biogradska Gora National Park with its glacial lake and a circuit walk beneath trees that have never been cut. Summer here is for grilling outdoors in the long evening light, picking wild berries along the forest edge, and rafting days on the Tara arranged from town.
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