
The centre of Ulcinj gathers around the Sahat Kula, the Ottoman clock tower that still marks the middle of town, and this address sits inside that circle. It is the practical heart of the place: green market, pharmacies, banks, bakeries and the bus station are all within a few streets, and the pedestrian sections fill each evening with the local korzo, a slow back-and-forth walk that only breaks up around midnight in summer.
Six hundred metres downhill the streets end at Mala plaža and the fortified Old Town above it — roughly a seven-minute walk, or three minutes by car if the day has been long. Beyond the town, Valdanos lies a few kilometres north-west, a sheltered bay enclosed by one of the largest old olive groves on the Adriatic, and about fourteen kilometres south-east the Bojana river splits around Ada Bojana, where wooden restaurants stand over the current on piles. Between them stretches Velika plaža and its unbroken sand. Ulcinj's cooking reflects its position on the border: fish and olive oil, but also stuffed peppers, chilli and Albanian pastries, served later in the evening than elsewhere in Montenegro.
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