
Cetinje is a town you read on foot, and four or five hundred metres from the old centre is about the right distance, quiet at night and close enough that everything worth seeing is a walk. The historic core is compact and unusually grand for its size: Biljarda, Njegos's fortified residence; the Cetinje Monastery, the country's spiritual centre; King Nikola's palace, kept much as it was in 1918; and a row of former embassies from the years when the small kingdom hosted the great powers, now museums, schools and galleries. The National Museum of Montenegro holds the collection most visitors underestimate.
The town also works as a base. Lovcen National Park begins immediately above it, with the Njegos Mausoleum and the Ivanova Korita trails within twenty minutes by car; the old Kotor road drops through hairpins to the bay; and Skadar Lake with the river bend and stone bridge at Rijeka Crnojevica lies on the other side. Cetinje sits high enough for real winters and cool summer evenings, which makes it a useful retreat when the coast is at full heat. Two large supermarkets are about fifty metres away, so provisioning takes no planning at all.
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