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The reason people have come up to Ivanova Korita for more than a century is the air. At 1,250 metres on the southern rim of Lovcen National Park, the basin sits where the continental and Mediterranean climates meet, and the resulting mix of mountain air and sea aerosol has long been treated here as a kind of open-air cure, particularly by visitors with respiratory complaints. The forest around it is old beech and pine, summer temperatures run well below those on the coast, and the nights are cold enough for a blanket in July.
The complex takes its name from Ivan Crnojevic, the fifteenth-century lord who founded Cetinje, and the oldest building on the site is King Nikola's summer house of 1896. Around it are sports pitches, a picnic garden and trails through the park, which is why athletic teams use the altitude here for pre-season work. Cetinje lies fifteen kilometres east, its monastery and royal museums an easy afternoon; the Njegos Mausoleum is closer still, its terrace looking down on the Bay of Kotor. Kitchens up here stay traditional: prosciutto and cheese from Njegusi on the far side of the mountain, lamb and potatoes under the sac, thick soups when the weather turns.
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