
Bar is a working town before it is a resort, and that gives a stay here a different texture from the Budva riviera. Ships come and go from the port, the overnight ferry leaves for Bari in southern Italy, and the railway climbs inland through tunnels and viaducts towards Podgorica. Between the port and the beaches there is a long green waterfront of parks and palms, with the former palace of King Nikola — now the town museum — standing among gardens planted with species brought home by nineteenth-century sailors. Evenings belong to the promenade, where most of the town walks slowly up and down until well after dark.
The area's real attraction sits four kilometres inland. Stari Bar is a whole ruined city on a hillside below Rumija mountain: churches, an aqueduct, cisterns and Ottoman-era houses, with cafés and craft shops at the gate and the ancient olive tree at Mirovica nearby. For swimming, the shingle beaches run north through Šušanj and Sutomore and south past Dobra Voda towards Ulcinj. Bar's other quiet strength is food — olive oil pressed in the hills behind town, fish landed at the harbour, and a produce market supplied from the Skadar Lake plain.
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