Rožaje

Rozaje is in the far east of Montenegro, on the upper Ibar close to the Serbian and Kosovan borders, at about 1,000 m. It is roughly two and a half hours from Podgorica, in the mountains between Hajla and Mokra Gora.

Snow, and wool. It is one of the coldest and snowiest inhabited places in Montenegro, and the town has a long tradition of knitted and woven woollen goods sold at markets across the region.

Yes, at the small Turjak centre just outside town. It is modest — a handful of runs and lifts — but the snow is reliable and lasts longer than at more famous resorts, and lift tickets cost a fraction of Kolasin's.

A high ridge on the border above Rozaje, reaching around 2,400 m, with open pasture, summer huts and one of the best long views in the country. It is the main summer walking objective from the town.

Predominantly Bosniak and Muslim, with mosques rather than monasteries, and a food culture to match — pies, dairy and lamb rather than seafood. It feels closer to the Sandzak than to the Montenegrin coast, which is part of what makes it interesting.

For skiing on a budget, for Hajla in summer and for travellers crossing between Montenegro, Serbia and Kosovo. It is not on the usual tourist circuit at all, and it is among the least expensive places in the country.