Living inside the walls is a different proposition from staying near them. Houses here have numbers rather than street names, there are no cars, and the sound of the place is bells, shoes on polished marble and the town's well-known population of cats. The rhythm follows the cruise ships: between mid-morning and late afternoon the main lanes are busy, and then the day-trippers leave and the old town belongs to whoever is sleeping in it. Early mornings, before the first coach, are the best hours of the day.
Step out of the Sea Gate and everything practical is within a couple of hundred metres: the quay where boats and liners tie up, the open-air market that sets up against the northern wall, the bus station, and the town beach just beyond. The festival calendar is unusually dense for a place this size, from the February carnival with its masked parades to KotorArt through July and August and the Boka Night in mid-August, when decorated boats circle the bay and fireworks go up over the water.
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