
Trg od pošte is one of a series of small squares that make up the plan of Kotor's old town. There is no grid here and no main street: lanes run at angles between three-storey stone houses and open, without warning, into spaces barely larger than a courtyard. The Square of Arms, just inside the Sea Gate, has the seventeenth-century clock tower and the old pillar of shame; Saint Tryphon's Square is dominated by the cathedral's mismatched twin towers; Saint Luke's Square holds two churches side by side.
The scale is what makes staying inside worthwhile, because everything is thirty seconds away. The Maritime Museum, in a baroque palace, explains how a town this small ran a merchant fleet; the ramparts behind it climb the mountain to the fortress of San Giovanni. In the evening the terraces set out tables against the walls and the town does its slow circuit up and down the same few lanes. Kotor has been feeding and housing travellers since the Venetians, and it still does it with more ease than its size would suggest.
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