The Old Town is less a grid than a puzzle of small squares linked by lanes built to confuse anyone who did not live here, and this corner sits beside the Maritime Museum in the Grgurina Palace — three floors of ship models, captains' portraits and the navigation instruments that made a town this size wealthy. The buildings around it are layered rather than uniform: Romanesque, Gothic and baroque work fitted together after successive earthquakes, with the fortress walls climbing the rock directly behind.
Everything is on foot from here. Trg Sv. Luke holds two churches on one small square, St Luke's from 1195 and St Nicholas with its Orthodox iconostasis; the cathedral is two minutes away; the town's famous cats sleep on every warm step and have a small museum of their own. Outside the walls, the quay and marina send boat trips to Perast and the islets, and the market by the Sea Gate is best before nine, when the ham, cheese and figs are still piled high. Above it all, the switchback stairway to San Giovanni fortress is worth doing at first light, before the heat arrives and the cruise ships unload.
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