
Prčanj lines the western shore of the inner bay and was, for a century or two, one of the more consequential villages on the Adriatic: its captains ran the imperial mail route towards Constantinople, and their houses still stand along a single waterfront street that goes on for kilometres. The village's landmark is the church of the Birth of the Blessed Virgin Mary, an enormous neoclassical building on the hillside that took more than a hundred years to finish and looks entirely out of scale with the place — which tells you how much money once passed through here.
Nothing about Prčanj is busy now. The waterfront doubles as a promenade with swimming ladders and a few konobas; the Gothic Three Sisters palace stands half-ruined by the water; neighbouring Stoliv keeps an old grove of camellias that the bay celebrates with its own festival each spring. Kotor is about fifteen minutes around the shore, close enough for a morning inside the walls and the long stair up to the fortress, and the same road carries on over the ridge to Tivat and the airport. Evenings are for watching the light leave the far side of the bay while ferries and yachts thread through the narrows.
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