
Eating well in Boka is not complicated, and Muo is a good place to test that. The standard is fish off an open grill with olive oil, chard and potato; alongside it, mussels and shrimp in buzara, black risotto stained with cuttlefish ink, and octopus baked slowly under a metal bell. What is genuinely local rather than broadly Mediterranean is the mountain half of the menu: prosciutto air-dried at Njeguši on the pass above Kotor, sheep cheese kept in oil, and the reds and whites brought up from the plain around Podgorica.
The village around all this is a line of old stone houses on the water, inside the protected zone of the bay, with the mountain at its back and Kotor's walls in full view across the channel. Having a small boat to hand changes the stay: the inner bay is sheltered enough for short trips up to Perast and its islets, or simply for swimming somewhere with nobody else in it. On land, the old town is a couple of kilometres around the shore.
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