Gusinje

Gusinje lies in the far east of Montenegro, about 10 km beyond Plav in a bowl of the Prokletije mountains, right against the Albanian border. It is roughly two hours from Podgorica and the last town before the high peaks.

A group of powerful karst springs a short walk from the town, where the Vruja rises fully formed out of the ground beneath the mountains. The meadows around them are a local picnic spot and the easiest short outing from Gusinje.

A glacial valley south-west of the town, walled by the vertical rock of the Karanfili peaks. It is the most photographed place in the Prokletije, has a few huts and a campsite, and is the trailhead for most serious walking here.

It is one of the best bases in the country. Routes lead up to Volusnica for the classic view of the Karanfili, over the border to Theth in Albania, and onto the Peaks of the Balkans circuit. Guides are available in the village.

Small, largely Albanian and Bosniak, with mosques, a market and a strong tradition of emigration — many families spend part of the year abroad. Summer is when the town fills up, both with returning families and with walkers.

For crossing into Albania or Kosovo on the mountain routes, yes: a cross-border permit must be arranged in advance, usually through the national park office or a local guide. Allow several days for it.