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Murino is a small town in the north-east of Montenegro, on the Lim river between Andrijevica and Plav, in a valley closed in by the Visitor and Zeletin ridges. It works as the local centre for a scattering of mountain villages: a school, a few shops and cafés, a bridge over green water, and houses climbing the slopes on either side. The pace is slow, and Orthodox and Bosniak families have long lived here side by side, which shows in the mix of church and mosque, food and everyday speech.
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Murino is a village in the Plav municipality of eastern Montenegro, on the Lim in the valley between Andrijevica and Plav. It sits below the Prokletije foothills, about two hours from Podgorica.
NATO aircraft struck the bridge in the village on 30 April 1999 during the Kosovo campaign. Six civilians were killed, three of them children. A memorial in the village names them, and the date is marked here each year.
The memorial, the river and the valley itself. Murino is a small place on a through road rather than a destination, but the setting — the Lim running between wooded slopes with the high peaks behind — is the reason to slow down.
It works as a stop rather than a base. Plav and Gusinje, twenty minutes on, have the accommodation, the guides and the trailheads for the Prokletije; Murino has a few rooms and not much else.
The valley road between Andrijevica and Plav is good and scenic, following the Lim the whole way. In winter it is kept open but can be slow, and the side roads into the villages are another matter entirely.
Summer for the mountains beyond, and autumn for the valley itself, when the beech woods on both sides turn. There is little reason to stop here in winter unless you are heading for the ski slopes above Plav.
Best time: April · May · October