
Seventeen people, one church, and a herd of deer painted on a rock above the coast road — the oldest picture anyone has found in Montenegro.
Lipci is a small settlement on the northern shore of the Bay of Kotor, between Risan and Morinj, where the slopes of Orjen drop steeply to the water and leave only a narrow strip for the coastal road and a line of stone houses. It is a quiet place of a few dozen homes, small jetties and clear water, with almost no tourism infrastructure of its own — and it holds a rare prehistoric rock-art site. A short, steep climb above the village leads to a natural rock overhang where prehistoric people left a group of drawings in reddish pigment: deer with branching antlers, hunting scenes, boats, and geometric and solar symbols. They are generally attributed to the Bronze Age, thousands of years old, and the combination of ships with land animals is read as evidence of a community already living between the sea and the mountain. The site is signposted from the road and free to visit, and the figures read best in soft morning or late-afternoon light rather than the glare of midday. The surroundings reward a slower stop. Risan, a few kilometres east, is the oldest settlement in the bay — capital of the Illyrian queen Teuta and later a Roman town, with second-century floor mosaics including the sleeping figure of Hypnos preserved under cover. Morinj lies the other way, with shingle beaches, cold river water running to the sea and a reputation for fish restaurants. The Kamenari–Lepetane ferry crosses the narrows nearby, cutting the drive to Tivat and Budva. Lipci suits travellers interested in archaeology and in the quieter, working side of the bay, and anyone based in Herceg Novi, Perast or Kotor looking for a half-day detour. Spring and autumn are ideal: the path is dry, the light is low and warm, and the bay is at its calmest. Summer works too, though the north shore offers little shade at midday.
A few hours
Half an hour, and nothing here is managed: no ticket office, no fence, no guide. Do not touch the rock — the pigment is lime stained with iron ore, and the published assessment of the site is that it is neglected and needs serious conservation.
One full day
Lipci itself
Best for nothing formal — no hotel, no konoba, no shop. Seventeen residents, seven households, forty-eight dwellings
Morinj, 2 km west
Best for a beach, two autocamps, a shop, and Ćatovića Mlini at the old mills — the natural base for seeing the drawings
Kostanjica, 3 km down the shore
Best for seventy-seven neighbours, a konoba or two, and Perast with its two islets three kilometres east across the water
Risan, 5 km east
Best for the only town on this water: supermarkets, a post office, a cash machine, the Roman mosaics, and 1,899 people
The Risan bay, by residents
Residents by settlement, 2023 census
One small town and four villages share this water, and the town holds five of every six people on it. Lipci, with the country’s oldest picture on the rock above it, has seventeen.
Twelve years on the same shore
Population change by settlement, 2011 to 2023
Risan and Donji Morinj each lost about seven per cent in twelve years; Strp, Lipci and Kostanjica lost between a quarter and two fifths. Lipci is not emptying faster than its neighbours — it simply had least left to lose.
Who visits Montenegro
Share of foreign overnight stays, 2025
MONSTAT · 2025
Census population, Lipci municipality
Thirty-six people in 1948 and thirty-six still in 2003 — Lipci held its size for fifty-five years. The fall came after: 24 at the 2011 census, 17 at the 2023 one, just over half the village gone in twenty years. The same census counted 7 households and 48 dwellings, nearly seven houses for every household living in one.
The dated history on this shore is Risan’s, the town at the head of the bay, and Lipci is counted inside it. Every band is younger than the deer above the village by some two and a half thousand years. Widths are to scale; the Austrian band takes in the Russian and French years, 1806 to 1814.
Wikipedia (sr) on Risan, after Tomanović 2007: Ottoman rule from 1482 to 1684, broken briefly in 1648, then Venice to 1797. Wikipedia (en) agrees on 1482 but dates the Venetian capture to 1688; the 1627 count of 800 citizens is from that English article.
Meanwhile, in 1961
Lipci, in 1961 the archaeologist Pavle Mijović reports paintings under a rock overhang half a kilometre in from the shore: stags and does in file above, schematic beasts with human figures and four geometric signs below, each animal 35–45 cm across, drawn in local lime stained red with iron ore.
The same year — the census counts 34 people in Lipci, as it had counted 34 in 1953 and 36 in 1948. Sixty-two years later there will be 17.
Baikonur: on 12 April Yuri Gagarin becomes the first person in space.
Berlin — on 13 August the wall goes up.
“The settlement was named for the lindens, which in the Bay of Kotor most often grow along watercourses.”
Domagoj Vidović and Branimir Bilafer, on the name
“Pogled u toponimiju Risanskoga zaljeva”, Folia onomastica Croatica 32 (2023), 115–135 — 274 place names collected across the five settlements of the Risan bay.
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Lipci is a hamlet on the northern shore of the inner Bay of Kotor, between Morinj and Risan on the coastal road. It is a scatter of houses below a steep rock face, about 5 km from Risan and half an hour from Kotor.
Prehistoric paintings on a rock overhang above the village, generally dated to the Bronze Age. They show deer, a hunting scene and a swastika-like solar sign, executed in reddish pigment, and they are the oldest known images in Montenegro.
Yes. A marked path climbs from the road behind the village and takes fifteen to twenty minutes. The site is open and unstaffed, protected by a grille; take water and decent shoes, and go in the morning before the rock heats up.
Estimates place them in the second millennium BC, around 3,000 to 3,500 years old, though the dating is not precise. What is clear is that people were on this shore of the bay long before the Illyrian and Roman settlements at Risan.
Lipci in numbers
the deer on the rock wall above the village; published datings run from the Bronze Age to the 8th century BC
2023 census — the men/women split is withheld, because MONSTAT protects any count under ten
St John’s, on the slope between the shore road and the drawings
south-east to the Kamenari–Lepetane ramp, the short cut across the strait
Tivat, over that ferry; 31 km if you drive round the bay through Kotor
MONSTAT, Popis 2023 (Lipci settlement) · Wikipedia (en) on the Lipci rock art, after Dyczek 2008 · OpenStreetMap and OSRM road distances
The shape of the bay
Towns at their true positions; the water drawn as a ribbon
Schematic — not a nautical chart.
Best time: May · June · September
| Place | By road | Driving |
|---|---|---|
| Morinj | 1.7 km | about 4 min |
| Kostanjica | 3.3 km | about 6 min |
| Risan | 4.8 km | about 8 min |
| Kamenari | 7 km | about 12 min |
| Kotor | 22.2 km | about 36 min |
| Budva | 35.5 km | about 50 min |
| Podgorica | 95.2 km | about 2 h 8 min |
Routes marked ⛴ cross on the Kamenari–Lepetane ferry. Road distances routed over OpenStreetMap data, © OpenStreetMap contributors. Driving times are free-flow and take no account of summer traffic or a queue at the ferry ramp.
Very little, which is the point. There is no beach service, no shops and no promenade — a few houses, the water and the path up to the shelter. Eat at Morinj or Risan, both minutes away.
For the rock art, yes: it is a rare, genuinely ancient site that almost nobody visits, and the walk up opens a long view along the inner bay. Allow an hour including the climb.
No — the nearest is Tivat Airport (TIV), 17 km away by road.
From about 13 °C in February to 25 °C in August. It holds above 22 °C from June to September, which is the swimming season. Regional normals from the Bar station, not a city-precise reading.
1.7 km by road, about 4 min by car.
The UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) has no advisory against travel to Montenegro; it last reviewed its guidance on 13 August 2026. That is their assessment of the country as a whole, not ours and not a judgement about Lipci, so read it yourself before you travel. The emergency number in Montenegro is 112.
Lipci is twenty minutes of the day and the reason for the rest of it: the bay’s oldest picture, a Roman god of sleep in mosaic and a lunch at the old mills, all inside ten kilometres.