Sveti Nikola

Sveti Nikola is the largest island off Montenegro's coast, a wooded ridge of rock about a kilometre off the Budva shore and in view from every terrace on the town's waterfront. It runs roughly two kilometres end to end, is uninhabited, and is covered in pine and Mediterranean scrub that comes down almost to the waterline. Budva locals have called it Hawaii for decades, and in July the nickname is not far off the mark: the boats run all day and the beaches fill. Three beaches lie along the landward side, sand and pebble in turn, with water that shelves gently and stays clear because there is nothing on the island to cloud it. The sea here is noticeably calmer than on the exposed town beaches, which makes it good for swimming with children, and the pale pebbles keep the shallows bright turquoise on a sunny day. Facilities are seasonal and basic; most people come for a few hours in swimwear and leave before dark. Behind the beaches a path runs the length of the island through low forest, past a small church dedicated to Saint Nicholas that dates from the sixteenth century, with old grave slabs scattered beside it. Deer and rabbits were introduced years ago and still live wild in the interior. The far side is rocky, open to the sea and largely unvisited, with views back across the bay to Budva's walled town and south toward Sveti Stefan. Getting there is simple: taxi boats leave through the day in the warm months from Budva's harbour and Slovenska plaža, and the crossing takes only a few minutes. The island suits swimmers, snorkellers and anyone wanting half a day away from the crowded strip. Come between June and September, since outside that window the boats largely stop running and the island goes back to the birds.