Pljevlja

Pljevlja is in the far north of Montenegro, close to both the Bosnian and Serbian borders, at about 770 m above sea level. It is around three hours from Podgorica by road and the largest town in the region, with roughly 30,000 people.

Two buildings stand out. The Holy Trinity monastery, from the 16th century, holds one of the richest collections of manuscripts and church treasure in the country. The Husein Pasha mosque of 1594 has the tallest minaret in the Balkans at around 42 m.

Yes. Municipium S, at Komini just outside town, was a Roman settlement whose necropolis produced remarkable glassware and jewellery, now in the local heritage museum. It is one of the most productive Roman sites excavated in Montenegro.

Pljevaljski sir is a white cheese matured in brine, sharp and crumbly, and the town's best-known product after coal. It appears on every menu here and travels well. The surrounding highland pastures are what give it its character.

High, open and continental — long cold winters and short warm summers, unlike anywhere on the coast. Ljubisnja mountain rises to the north-west, and the Tara canyon is within reach to the south, which makes the town a base for rafting and hiking.

For travellers interested in the interior, yes: the monastery, the mosque and the Roman finds are all genuinely worth the drive. It is a mining and power-station town rather than a resort, and few visitors come, which is part of the appeal.