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<p>Čevo sits on a high karst plateau in the Old Montenegro heartland between Cetinje and Nikšić, at around 900 metres. It is the historic centre of the Cuce, one of the highland tribes of this region, and the landscape explains a great deal about them: bare grey limestone, sinkholes and shallow poljes, thin soil gathered painstakingly into walled plots, and almost no surface water, since everything drains straight through the rock. </p> <p>This is country that was never comfortable and was never meant to be.
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